The Basics For Your Rabbit And Guinea Pig

(this blog is also available in video format)

Okay so we are sticking to the very very basics here but extremely important to cover as there is a lot of misinformation out there and it can be hard to know what is actually correct. I will cover diet/accommodation/bonding and neutering in other blogs….there is just so much to talk about.

So you’re new to owning a pig or bun and you would like to know the basics they will require (excluding diet and accommodation). First off are vaccines! Guniea pigs do not require yearly vaccines but rabbits defiantly do! Vaccines can be given to a bun from 5 weeks old and above. It’s one vaccine per year which will protect your bun from some really nasty life threatening illnesses like VHD1, VHD2 and Myxomatosis. It is a common misconception that if you have house rabbits that they do not need vaccinating. This isn’t the case, they still need vaccinating- illnesses can be spread by biting insects like mosquitoes and can easily get into your house through open windows, on other pets and even in bedding. So vaccines are key for all! Make sure you make a note each year of the rough time that your buns will need their next vaccine and stick to it. If you leave it to long then the protection in their immune systems will begin to drop and they can be at risk. These conditions can kill in less than two days so I can’t stress how important it is. And a little tip for finding a bunny safe pet boarder, they should ask to see your bun vaccine certificate. Any boarder worth their salt will not take any unvaccinated buns knowing the risk to life should they fall ill.

Next- Grooming brushes- Buns and pigs need grooming on a pretty regular basis. If they are long haired then they will need grooming more regularly and if they are moulting then they will also need an increased amount of grooming. Allowing a build up of old fur to form can actually cause a range of skin problems and also cause a increased risk of the animal accidently ingesting more fur then normal which can cause gut blockages so it’s important to keep that old floof away. When the weather is hot, extra excess floof can also make your fur bundle very uncomfortable so it’s best to get used to grooming your small pet. Some are easily stressed so you need to find the right balance and the best way of grooming without too much difficulty. Such as grooming while they are eating and distracted. There are also different types of brush out there, make sure you pick one that will hold the old fur and not glide through it.

Next…..we have nail clippers: bunny and guinea pig claws grow extremely fast which is totally understandable as in a natural environment, they would dig a lot but as a pet, they rarely do. Therefore keeping on top of nail length is very important. If they are left too long, they will begin to curl inwards stopping the pet from being able to walk and move normally. It can cause infections and a whole range of problems and discomfort for the pet so best to monitor. Some clients are happier having them trimmed at their vets or having a nail cutting service come to the house. Once you’re more confident and seasoned with your small pet then it’s easier to just do it yourself. However if your pet is tricky to handle then it may be easier to seek out one of these services. I often trim nails without saying anything as its part of good health and hygiene. You can get nail clippers in slightly different styles and sizes so find what suits you and your pet best. There are plenty of how to clip nails on your bun or pig online.

You want them to be in a good position where they are supported and can’t wriggle too much. Using a blanket around them is also helpful as they feel more protected and less exposed. Also important to mention that when you start out, you want to just clip the very ends (the actual nail), don’t try to be over confident and clip too far down, especially with rabbits as you may catch the blood vessel within the nail which can bleed a lot if caught and be very alarming to the pet owner. If you do, then don’t panic- we’ve all been there! Just wrap a bit of tissue over the bleeding nail and apply a little pressure for a few moments and the bleeding should stop. You can also use corn flour on bleeding nails as it acts as a blood clotter. If the bleeding has not stopped after 20 minutes then contact your vets. Or if like me, you own a corestick pen then simply use the pen over the bleeding and it will stop within a few moments. A corestick pen is often what they use at vets to stop bleeding and contains silver nitrate which acts as a blood clotter. It stings slightly when you first put it on your pets nail but stops quickly and is much better then allowing the bleed to continue.

When cutting nails, I know it can be a little unnerving. But these are the basic rules- if you look at your pets nail, you will see when you look at it, that the pigment changes colour (normally darker) further down the nail. Where it becomes darker pink normally is called the quick and within the quick is a small blood vessel. you want to be cutting just the nail below the quick, under where the pigment changes. If you cut into the quick then it is likely you will cut into the blood vessel, causing a bleed. It can seem like a lot of blood for a tiny nail but it is not life threatening. Just follow the process mentioned above and the bleed should stop. You will get better with practice and gain confidence. And while cutting into the blood vessel will make your pet wince, it passes quickly. But to avoid this in the first place, play safe and cut just the nail tips.

Next on the list to have at home always is………… Fly Guard

This is a vital preventative measure to stop your beloved fury one from being taken down by fly strike. It can be used on a range of small pets however is most commonly used for rabbits and piggies. The amount you use will be based on your pet’s weight so make sure you check instructions closely. It contains a vital ingredient called ivermectin which flies hate! It is not a totally fault proof measure but I have used it on my own pets for years and never had one single case of fly strike so I can confirm that it really does work. I tend to use once to twice a month however you may need to use more often if your pet tends to get a messy tail and bum area or matted poo which can attract flies aswell. And it goes without saying that this should be used no matter if your pet lives inside or out as flies can still get inside the house through the windows. You simply spray the correct amount of puffs onto the tail area and carefully brush into the fur. Fly strike is a horrible health emergency with maggots hatching in the fur sometimes in less than 24 hours when it’s warm so this is an absolute must for your small pet.

And lastly for this blog- I have picked anti parasite spot on. This is another must to keep at home in order to ensure your pets general day to day health remains tip top. You give once a month and the amount used will be based on your pet’s weight so check the instructions carefully. You simply squeeze the contents out onto the back fur of the pet and then brush in using a grooming brush. It helps to protect your pet from parasites such as lice, mites and flees and while it is not fault proof, it really does help. This and the fly guard should be used every month, all year round. You’ll often find that this product goes out of stock in the summer months. This is because lots of small pet owners are under the false belief that they only should use during the summer months but in fact it’s important to use all year round. As our winters get wetter and milder, these parasites are not dying and so your small pet needs protecting in winter as well, not just in the summer months. Therefore I recommend stocking up in the spring so you have enough to cover you for the summer.

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