Pellets-What You Need To Know: Explained!

Pellets- which ones to feed? How much to feed? Which brand to use?

..…it can be pretty confusing to know if you’re doing it right so I’m going to break it down and also talk about some big no no’s that I see all too often when it comes to pellets. Please note this blog is focused on pellets for rabbits and guinea pigs however pellets do play an important role in the diet for many other small critters including rats, hamsters and chinchilla’s so if you wish to get targeted advice for your pet type then be sure to contact your exotic vet specialist.

Firstly, what exactly are they? Pellets are compressed nuggets of food, made specifically for the type of animal stated on the packet. They are made of a blend of hay, grass and other ingredients that are designed to provide a balanced source of nutrients including vital fiber for gut health. However although pellets play a very important role in the diet of your pet, they should only make up around 5% of their overall diet. Unfortunately many owners get this very wrong and feed way to much of it.

So why does it only make 5% and what happens if you feed too much? Pellets have a very finely balanced mix of minerals and vitamins, the right amount is fab but too much can start to cause problems in the health of your pet. Pellets are calorie dense and while ideal in small amounts, too much can encourage the animal to eat less hay (and hay is the most important part of their diet, making up 95% of overall diet for gut and dental health). I see it a lot, rabbits and piggies being fed whole bowls of pellets every day, it’s an easy fix to explain to an owner willing to change their ways but prevention is of course always better.

 So what are the main health risks for your rabbit or G pig if you over feed pellets?

• Obesity: this is the number one problem that I see very often. Pellets are the number one cause of rabbits and g piggies being overweight and often the owner doesn’t even realize that the over feeding of pellets is the cause of the problem in the first place. Rabbits and g pigs are prone to obesity when fed excessive amounts of pellets, as pellets are calorie-rich and require less chewing than hay. This can in turn lead to a range of health problems associated with excess weight. Weight is much easier to gain in small pets then it is to lose so starting correctly is the best way to avoid this.

• Dental Disease: small pet’s teeth are continuously growing and chewing hay is crucial for wearing them down naturally. Overfeeding pellets can lead to a reduction in hay consumption, causing overgrown teeth and potential dental problems. 

• Digestive Issues: A high-fiber diet, primarily from hay, is vital for healthy digestion in rabbits. Overfeeding pellets and reducing hay intake can lead to digestive upset, including gut stasis which is potentially life-threatening. Bladder stones, heart and liver disease and chronic diarrhea are all risks of over feeding pellets.  

Okay but how much is 5% of their daily diet? There are many ways to measure a portion for a small pet, some methods work better than others and some more precise then others. I often see egg cups or tiny scoops being used to measure a portion, or even just enough to fill the palm of your hand. The problem is that these methods are open to interpretation and I find that owners often feel mean for offering what looks like very little. The pets cute nature and the fact that they often like to beg, means that it tugs on our heart strings as a human and just like a parent with their child asking for chocolate, it’s all too easy to give in and slowly grow into a habit of giving them just a little more each time. The key point to remember is that if you want them to live long healthy lives then being strict is being kind.

-Vets will often use a 15 -25 gram rule- this means for every 1kg that your pet weighs you give them 15 to 25 grams of pellets per day so if they weigh 2.5kg then you would give them around 45 grams of pellets. You can measure this using a set of weighing scales and over time you might find you learn how many pellets this weight roughly is.

HOWEVER it’s really important to stress that these are all guideline methods and that the only person that can give you a precise amount to feed your pet, is your exotic vet specialist. They will be able to advise on a one to one basis which is really important because just like humans, we all come in different shapes and sizes with different genes and different health statuses. For example, while the 25 gram rule may work perfectly for a set of young healthy bunnies, it would not be ideal for an underweight pet that would need an increased amount of pellets or for an overweight pet that would need to be fed less. Therefore if you’re worried then speak to your vet. Remember that the daily amount you feed is not set in stone, if your vet feels it is needed then you may need to change the amount given each day.

Are there different types of pellets for different ages and pet types: yes, there are loads of different types- including pellets from the same brand that target different age groups (such as pellets for junior rabbits, pellets for senior rabbits and pellets for pets with specific health requirements that target urinary track or digestive track health. If in doubt then always ask your vet for recommendations on what brand and type to feed them. Remember that if you’re pet is eating a junior pellet then you’ll need to make a note on when you need to start feeding adult food (this is important because the minerals and vitamin content in food for young and old pets will be different and feeding the incorrect type to your pet’s age group can also cause health complications. Sometimes you will come across pellet brands that state they are fine for rabbits and guinea pigs or also known as multi species safe (personally I would stay well clear of these pellets, pellets should be targeted to a one type of animal only, designed just for them).

Selective feeding for NONO pellet types: this photo shows a colorful muesli type bunny food. If you feed your small pet this PLEASE STOP. When I was a little girl, this was the standard dry food you would feed small pets because back then, the research into what they really needed was very limited. These days we know this muesli needs to be avoided. However frustratingly, they are still sold online and because of their bright fun looking colors, they seem to attract new small pet owners with no small pet know how. It also tends to cost a lot less than a standard bag of good quality pellets and you’ll still often find it being sold in bargain shops such as pound land and garden centers in the pet section (stores are all about profit and not the health of your pet so don’t be fooled).

So why is it so bad?

-Muesli-style foods often contain a mix of ingredients, and rabbits tend to favor the sweeter, starchier components like flaked maize, seeds, and grains. This selective eating leads to an unbalanced diet lacking in essential nutrients and fiber. 

-Dental Problems:

The high sugar and starch content in muesli can contribute to dental disease, including overgrown teeth and misaligned teeth. 

-Digestive Issues:

Rabbits need a high-fiber diet to maintain a healthy digestive system. Muesli's low fiber content and selective feeding can lead to reduced gut motility, potentially causing gut stasis, a potentially fatal condition.

-Obesity:

The high calorie content of muesli can lead to weight gain and obesity, increasing the risk of other health problems. 

-Flystrike:

A muesli-based diet can reduce the consumption of caecotrophs (soft, nutrient-rich droppings that rabbits need to eat) which can lead to soiled fur and an increased risk of flystrike which will kill your pet if not treated quickly.

• Other Issues:

Selective feeding can also lead to a lack of essential vitamins and minerals, urinary tract problems, and a higher risk of arthritis. 

An important note I feel I need to make right now (a personal bug bear of mine)- the comment has been made to me before by owners who feel they know better than all the research on small pets: which is “surely hay and pellets are sort of the same?”. I’ve even come across folk only bothering to feed their pet’s pellets and not hay. For all the reasons listed above, pellets are only to be given in small amounts according to your pet’s weight. It does not replace hay and NEVER should. Hay and pellets have totally different mineral and vitamin content values as well as texture differences that are vital for teeth and gut health. Therefore if you have small pets then you need to feed them hay 95% and pellets 5%, not one or the other. If you can’t afford to buy hay or pellets then please don’t get them in the first place.

There is no doubt that when you have more than one small pet, getting them to eat the right amount of pellets per day can become a challenge indeed. With any luck, they will share nicely and will both get roughly the right amount of pellet intake for each of their body weights however in truth, this is rarely the case especially in pairs. This is because there is nearly always a dominant personality and a submissive personality and this normally means that the greedier more confident one will end up eating a greater quantity then the other. This can become a problem if you start to notice that one pet is becoming over weight, whilst the other is losing weight.

The methods of dealing with this you can try:

- You can try to feed them from separate bowls, and in separate areas of their accommodation. Also have multiple feeding stations that you split the pellets between. Rabbits are territorial, so one feeder per rabbit can help prevent dominant rabbits from monopolizing the food. 

-Scatter pellets around the enclosure to encourage natural foraging behaviors and allow all the rabbits or g pigs to find the pellets themselves.

• Try using enrichment toys to hide pellets and make it more fun to find them. Such as ball toys which some pellet can be placed inside, once rolled the pellets slowly fall out. Or scatter inside a pile of hay. This makes eating pellets more engaging and stimulating and means it takes longer for them to eat so the more dominant pet is therefore unable to gorge itself and this way, all pets will get some pellets.

• Only in extreme cases of illness or behavioral problems and a certain pet really isn’t getting enough pellets or food may your vet recommend to feed them separately so that you can 100% be sure they all got their daily intake.

What if my pets don’t like the pellets I am giving them or seem bored?

-try making it more interesting by scatter feeding or hiding pellets in toys or piles of hay. You can try mixing the pellets with a tiny amount of their favorite vegetables too.

If for whatever reason, you find your pets just don’t seem to like the pellets you have selected and you have given it a good amount of time to try, then it is okay and actually pretty standard to try another pellet brand. But be sure to introduce new pellets slowly (over a course of 10 days to avoid digestive upset).

Okay so what should you be looking for when selecting a pellet type/brand?

-in a nutshell, a good pellet should be high in fiber, low in fat and calcium and made from quality ingredients.

Key Ingredients: timothy Hay (This is the most recommended fiber source for adult rabbits and should be the primary ingredient), other Grasses like Orchard grass or other grass hays are also good options, Balanced Vitamins and Minerals: Pellets should contain a mix of essential vitamins and minerals, including vitamin E, vitamin A, and vitamin D3, as well as trace minerals like copper, zinc, and selenium. Some pellets may include prebiotics and probiotics to further support digestive health. 

Ingredients to Avoid:

Seeds and Nuts: These are often high in fat and can lead to digestive problems or obesity. 

Dried Fruit: High in sugar and can contribute to digestive issues. 

High Starch/Sugar Ingredients: Avoid pellets with high amounts of corn, wheat, or other starchy grains, which can cause digestive upset. 

Artificial Colors or Preservatives: Look for natural, high-quality ingredients without unnecessary additives. 

Excessive Protein: While rabbits need protein, especially when young, adult rabbits should have a moderate amount (around 12-14%). 

Additional Considerations:

Also take note of the Fiber Content: Aim for pellets with at least 18% fiber, which is essential for healthy digestion. Also take note of the Calcium and Phosphorus levels: correct ratio of calcium to phosphorus for strong bones and to avoid bladder stones is important.

Prices vary a lot from brand to brand but if in doubt always check with your vet first. Two of the best known brands in England recommended by vets which you’ll see in all the pet stores are: Supreme Science Selective and Excel. Also when considering what type of pellet to feed, you want something that is also good for chewing, therefore larger in size, not the type that looks like mice food. Excel offers food for bunnies and guinea pigs.

So there is your load down on pellets- hopefully it helps you to find the right pellet for your fur VIPS’S.

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